Top 10 Most Searched Questions About Drywall and Framing: The Ultimate Guide

1. Should Drywall Be Hung Horizontally or Vertically?

This debate has raged on for decades in construction circles, with good arguments on both sides:

Horizontal Installation:

Creates fewer seams on walls under 8 feet tall
Reduces the number of butt joints (the most difficult to finish)
Preferred for residential applications
Makes walls structurally stronger

Vertical Installation:

Often used in commercial construction
Can be better for walls over 9 feet tall
May be easier for solo installers to manage
Sometimes required by specific building codes

The verdict? For most residential applications, horizontal installation provides superior results with fewer visible seams.

2. Should You Glue Drywall to Studs?

Many DIYers are surprised to learn that adhesive has a legitimate place in drywall installation:

Benefits of Using Adhesive:

Reduces nail pops and screw dimples
Creates a stronger bond with the framing
Minimizes fastener count needed
Helps prevent movement and cracking

For best results, use construction adhesive designed specifically for drywall in conjunction with (not instead of) mechanical fasteners. Apply a zigzag bead of adhesive on each stud before pressing the drywall into place.

3. Should You Stagger Drywall Seams?

Absolutely! Staggering seams is not optional—it's essential for both structural integrity and finished appearance:

Stagger vertical seams by at least 16" between adjacent panels
Never allow four corners to meet at a single point
On ceilings, stagger seams by at least 48" where possible
When doing multiple layers, ensure seams don't align between layers

Properly staggered seams distribute stress across the wall surface and make finishing much easier.

4. Should I Use Nails or Screws for Hanging Drywall?

This question sparks heated debates among professionals:

Screws:

Superior holding power
Less likely to pop over time
Easier to remove if mistakes happen
Allow for easier adjustments during installation

Nails:

Faster installation with a pneumatic nailer
Can be more cost-effective for large projects
Some professionals prefer them for the ceiling perimeter

The professional consensus leans heavily toward drywall screws for most applications, with some using the "nail the perimeter, screw the field" technique for efficiency.

5. When Drywalling a Room, Should I Do the Ceiling Before the Walls?

The proper sequence matters significantly:

Always install ceiling drywall first
Then install upper wall panels
Finally, install lower wall panels

This sequence ensures that the ceiling panels are supported by the wall panels beneath them, creating a more stable installation with better-looking corners.

6. Should I Prime Drywall Before Painting?

For paper tape, this technique has its proponents:

Pros of Pre-Wetting:

Helps the tape lie flatter and reduces bubbling
Can improve adhesion in certain conditions
Makes the tape more pliable for corners

Cons of Pre-Wetting:

Adds an extra step to the process
Can introduce too much moisture if overdone
Not necessary with sufficient mud application

Professional opinion is split, but most agree that proper joint compound application is more important than whether the tape is pre-wetted. Self-adhesive mesh tape should never be wetted.

7. Should You Wet Drywall Tape Before Applying?

For paper tape, this technique has its proponents:

Pros of Pre-Wetting:

Helps the tape lie flatter and reduces bubbling
Can improve adhesion in certain conditions
Makes the tape more pliable for corners

Cons of Pre-Wetting:

Adds an extra step to the process
Can introduce too much moisture if overdone
Not necessary with sufficient mud application

Professional opinion is split, but most agree that proper joint compound application is more important than whether the tape is pre-wetted. Self-adhesive mesh tape should never be wetted.

8. How Much Gap Should Be Left Between Drywall and Floor?

This seemingly small detail makes a big difference:

Leave approximately 1/2" gap between drywall and floor
This prevents moisture wicking from the floor
Allows for normal house settling without drywall damage
Provides space for baseboards to sit flush with the wall
Helps prevent cracking along the bottom edge

This gap will be completely covered by baseboards, making it invisible in the finished room.

9. How Do I Find Studs When Stud Finders Won't Work?

When technology fails, try these reliable methods:

Look for nail/screw heads in the baseboard (these attach to studs)
Tap along the wall—studs produce a solid sound versus hollow spaces
Measure from a corner (studs are typically 16" or 24" on center)
Check electrical outlets (usually attached to the side of a stud)
Use a strong magnet to locate drywall screws/nails in existing walls
Drill tiny exploratory holes and use a bent wire to feel for studs

Once you find one stud, the others are likely spaced at consistent intervals.

10. What Height Should Interior Walls Be When Framing Basement with Varying Ceiling Heights?

For basements with uneven ceiling heights:

Determine the lowest point in your ceiling
Account for any planned drop ceiling or direct-mount ceiling
Standard basement wall height is typically 7'10" to 8'2"
For partial-height walls, maintain at least 6'8" clearance for doorways
Consider step-downs in ceiling height for different zones

Always check local building codes, as minimum ceiling heights are regulated for habitable spaces.

Final Tips for Professional Results

The best communicators and builders know that simplicity and clarity lead to better results. Whether writing instructions or building walls, remember these principles:

Plan thoroughly before starting
Measure twice, cut once
Use the right tools for each specific task
Take your time on prep work—it shows in the finished product
Don't skip crucial steps like proper taping and priming

Following these guidelines will help ensure your drywall and framing projects look professional and stand the test of time. Remember that proper installation today prevents costly repairs tomorrow.